Hindistan\u2019\u0131n Kuzey\u2019inde yer alan ve Tibet Budizm\u2019inin kalesi olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan\u00a0 Mc Leod Ganj kasabas\u0131n\u0131n ara sokaklar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken bir yandan tepemde g\u00f6lgeli bir patika yaratan g\u00fcr \u00e7am a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131na bakarak huzur buluyor, bir yandan da \u00fczerinde oyunlar oynayan maymunlar\u0131 seyrediyorum. G\u00f6zlerimi a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya indirdik\u00e7e \u00f6nce evlerin ve tap\u0131naklar\u0131n \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan ve s\u0131ra s\u0131ra dizilmi\u015f, \u00fczerinde dualar\u0131n yer ald\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0 renkli bayraklar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.\u00a0 Beyaza boyanm\u0131\u015f ev ve tap\u0131naklar\u0131n pencerelerinden merakla d\u0131\u015far\u0131 bakan 4-5 ya\u015flar\u0131ndaki \u00e7ekik g\u00f6zl\u00fc\u00a0 \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n ard\u0131ndan en sonunda g\u00f6zlerimi a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 indirdi\u011fimde, huzur, yerini tatl\u0131 bir hareketlili\u011fe b\u0131rak\u0131yor. Dar patikaya kurulmu\u015f tezgahlar, onlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde yer alan Budizm ile ilgili kitaplar, Budist m\u00fczi\u011finin \u00f6zg\u00fcn par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131n derlendi\u011fi CD\u2019ler, dua \u00e7emberleri, ayinlerde kullan\u0131lan ziller ve onlar\u0131 satmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan\u00a0 Tibet\u2019li Budist sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u2026 Kasabay\u0131 ziyarete gelmi\u015f turistlerin hepsi tezgahlar\u0131n \u00fczerine e\u011filmi\u015f mutluluklar\u0131n\u0131 bu tezgahlar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde arar gibiler. Kendi \u015fehirlerinde, belki de sokakta dilenen adama y\u00fcz vermeyen, i\u015f yerinde \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan asistan\u0131n\u0131 azarlamaktan geri kalmayan, ikinci yazl\u0131k evi i\u00e7in h\u0131rsla \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan ve belki de ailesine vakit ay\u0131ramayan yorgun suratlar, bu kasabada Tibet\u2019li Budistlerden ge\u00e7en , \u00e7ok bula\u015f\u0131c\u0131 bir vir\u00fcse yakalanm\u0131\u015f. \u2018G\u00fcl\u00fcmseme hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131na\u2019\u2026 Mc Leod Ganj\u2019 sokaklar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken, birbirini tan\u0131yan tan\u0131mayan herkes birbirine g\u00fcl\u00fcmseyerek\u00a0 ve ellerini g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcslerinin hemen alt\u0131nda birle\u015ftirerek selam vermeyi \u00f6\u011frenmi\u015f.
Burada tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yabanc\u0131lar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu, tezgahlarda sadece, bu co\u011frafyay\u0131 hat\u0131rlamalar\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flayabilecek bir hat\u0131ra veya e\u015fyay\u0131 bulma pe\u015flerinde de\u011filler. Asl\u0131nda kaderin bir \u015fekilde onlar\u0131 buraya g\u00f6nderdi\u011fini s\u00f6yleyebilmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Sokakta veya tap\u0131nakta tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m turistlerin hikayeleri farkl\u0131 farkl\u0131. \u0130\u00e7lerinden biri A\u0130DS\u2019e yakalanm\u0131\u015f, hayat\u0131 sorgulamaya ba\u015flay\u0131nca da cevab\u0131 burada bulaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f. Bir di\u011feri evlad\u0131n\u0131 kaybetmi\u015f\u2026 Bir di\u011feri ise her \u015feye sahip oldu\u011fu halde, bunlarla mutlu olma yetene\u011fini\u2026. K\u0131sacas\u0131 herkes yeni bir bak\u0131\u015f a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n sa\u011flayaca\u011f\u0131 yeni bir\u00a0 hayat\u0131n pe\u015finde\u2026
G\u00fcnd\u00fczleri ana tap\u0131nakta Dalai Lama\u2019n\u0131n verdi\u011fi \u00f6\u011fretilere kat\u0131larak Budizme daha derin bir noktadan bakmaya ba\u015flayan turistler, \u00f6\u011fleden sonra ayn\u0131 kasabada verilen yoga ve meditasyon seanslar\u0131na kat\u0131l\u0131yor, ard\u0131ndan kasabada yer alan resmi astroloji merkezinde geleceklerinde onlar\u0131 nelerin bekledi\u011fini \u00f6\u011frenmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken, Tibet t\u0131bb\u0131n\u0131n y\u00f6reye \u00f6zg\u00fc tamamen do\u011fal tedavi yollar\u0131 hakk\u0131nda bilgi edinmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlar. Ak\u015famlar\u0131 ise arkada\u015flarla toplan\u0131p Budizm ile ilgili fikirlerin al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fi ba\u015fl\u0131yor\u2026
Hindistan\u2019\u0131n kuzeyinde gezdik\u00e7e \u015funu anlamaya ba\u015fl\u0131yorum. \u2018Gezelim- g\u00f6relim\u2019 tarz\u0131 seyahat yerini \u2018Gezelim \u2013 Ayd\u0131nlanal\u0131m\u2019a b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcne kadar Avrupa ya da Afrika\u2019da seyahat eden turistlerle nereleri g\u00f6r\u00fcp, neler yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 konu\u015furken, burada daha \u00e7ok neler \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fimizi ve bunun bizi nas\u0131l de\u011fi\u015ftirdi\u011fini konu\u015fuyoruz.
Herkes d\u00f6nd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde hayat\u0131nda neleri de\u011fi\u015ftirece\u011finden bahsediyor. Oysa buradaki gibi sade bir kasabada Budist olmak kolay\u2026 Peki ya Bo\u011faz k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc trafi\u011finde?
McLeod Ganj\u2019\u0131 arkamda b\u0131rak\u0131rken akl\u0131mdaki soru buydu\u2026
-BUD\u0130ZM\u2019\u0130N YEN\u0130 KALES\u0130:
McLeod Ganj \u2018dan sonra Tibet Budizm\u2019ine ilgi duyanlar\u0131n son zamanlarda rotay\u0131 \u00e7evirmeye\u00a0 ba\u015flad\u0131klar\u0131 son kale ise Ladakh.
1974\u2019te turizme a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131 ve n\u00fcfus yo\u011funlu\u011funun d\u00fcnyadaki en d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck b\u00f6lgelerden biri olmas\u0131 nedeniyle hala bakir say\u0131l\u0131r. Bunun nedenlerinden bir tanesi de Ladakh\u2019\u0131n\u00a0 sert ge\u00e7en k\u0131\u015flar\u0131.\u00a0 \u0130klim ko\u015fullar\u0131 nedeniyle bu\u00a0 co\u011frafya y\u0131lda sadece 3 ay ziyaret edilebiliyor. Haziran-Temmuz ve A\u011fustos. Di\u011fer zamanlarda sert esen kar, b\u00f6lgenin yollar\u0131n\u0131 bile kapatabiliyor\u2026
Ladakh b\u00f6lgesi\u2019nin Budizm ile \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015fmi\u015f di\u011fer b\u00f6lgelerinden ayr\u0131lan fark\u0131, burada ya\u015fayan halk\u0131n, Budist geleneklerini ve Budizmi hayatlar\u0131na nas\u0131l ge\u00e7irebildiklerini yerinde ve \u00fcstelik en orijinal haliyle g\u00f6rebilmek.
Ladakh\u2019l\u0131lar\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131 hala\u00a0 doktor yerine Shaman\u2019lar\u0131 ziyaret etmeyi tercih ederken, \u00f6l\u00fclerini g\u00f6mmek yerine y\u00fczy\u0131llard\u0131r yapt\u0131klar\u0131 gibi f\u0131r\u0131nlarda yak\u0131yorlar. Y\u00f6rede d\u00fczenlenen ayinlerde, \u00f6zellikle yaz\u0131n d\u00fczenlenen birbirinden farkl\u0131 ve renkli festivallerde, Budist\u2019ler hala y\u00fczy\u0131ll\u0131k m\u00fcziklerini hi\u00e7 de\u011fi\u015fmeden kullan\u0131yorlar. \u00d6zellikle Dung Chen ismi verilen ve boyu 3 metreyi bulabilen nefesli borular geleneksel Tibet m\u00fczi\u011finin hala en vazge\u00e7ilmez tad\u0131. Ayinlerde Budist Rahiplerin ba\u015flar\u0131na takt\u0131klar\u0131 ve Gelugpa olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan sar\u0131 \u015fapkalar onlar\u0131n en belirgin giysilerinden biri olmay\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcrken, y\u00f6renin tek sporu polo ise hala seyirci toplamay\u0131 ba\u015far\u0131yor. Y\u00fczy\u0131llard\u0131r de\u011fi\u015fmeyen bu geleneklere ilk defa tan\u0131kl\u0131k eden ben ise, Aziz Nesin\u2019in kitab\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck karakter gibi her g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcn \u00fczerine atl\u0131yorum. Mu-ni? Allahtan Budizm\u2019in en ba\u015f \u00f6\u011fretilerinden biri sab\u0131r… Herkes b\u0131kmadan usanmadan sorular\u0131m\u0131 sab\u0131rla cevapl\u0131yor.
\u201cMu-ni?\u201d
\u201c-O dua \u00e7emberi. Budistler \u00fczerinde Buda’n\u0131n \u00f6\u011fretilerinin yaz\u0131l\u0131 oldu\u011fu bu \u00e7emberleri belli bir y\u00f6ne \u00e7evirip dua ediyorlar.\u201d
\u201cPekiii Mu-ni?\u201d
\u201cO yak ya\u011f\u0131ndan yap\u0131lan \u00e7ay.
\u201cHmm peki mu-ni?\u201d
\u201cO Hemis festivali s\u0131ras\u0131nda rahiplerin takt\u0131klar\u0131 ve Tanr\u0131larla tanr\u0131\u00e7alar\u0131 temsil eden maskeler.
\u201cPeki ya mu-ni?\u201d
\u201cShey tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\u201d
BUDA \u0130LE TANI\u015eMAK\u2026
Budizm\u2019in kalesi deyince akla ilk gelen \u015fey y\u00f6renin davetk\u00e2r tap\u0131naklar\u0131\u2026
Ladakh b\u00f6lgesindeki Budist tap\u0131naklar ger\u00e7ekten de etkileyici. D\u0131\u015fardan bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda dayan\u0131lmaz bir i\u00e7eri girme iste\u011fi duyuyorum. Hepsi sanki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck birer Potala Saray\u0131\u2026
Leh\u2019e 15 km uzakl\u0131ktaki Shey Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7indeki gizemli 12 metre boyundaki buda heykelinin varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 duydu\u011fumda se\u00e7imimi yap\u0131yorum.\u00a0 Basaklardan \u00fc\u00e7er be\u015fer \u00e7\u0131kmaya ba\u015fl\u0131yorum. Ard\u0131ndan zorland\u0131\u011f\u0131m i\u00e7in h\u0131z\u0131m\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrerek teker teker \u00e7\u0131kmaya devam etsem de, dizlerimde ufak \u00e7apta bir a\u011fr\u0131 hissetmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yorum. Merdivenleri \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a, Shey tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131, adeta \u00fczerine d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc i\u00e7in kendini naza \u00e7eken \u015f\u0131mar\u0131k bir sevgili gibi gittik\u00e7e uzakla\u015f\u0131yor . Ci\u011ferlerim dudaklar\u0131m\u0131n aras\u0131ndan d\u00fcnyay\u0131 g\u00f6rme \u00e7abas\u0131 i\u00e7inde! Kalbim ise kulaklar\u0131mda at\u0131yor! Basamaklar hala bitmi\u015f de\u011fil. Ama ben bundan sonra \u00e7\u0131kaca\u011f\u0131m merdivenlerin, tap\u0131na\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kan basamaklardan \u00e7ok cennete \u00e7\u0131kan basamaklara d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fece\u011finden endi\u015felenmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yorum. Nefes nefeseyim, kalbim bin be\u015f y\u00fcz at\u0131yor ve ben art\u0131k eminim. \u201c\u00d6L\u00dcYORUM!\u201d
Basamaklar\u0131 heyecanla \u00fc\u00e7er be\u015fer \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 g\u00f6ren turistlerden biri imdad\u0131ma yeti\u015fiyor hemen.
\u201cSen delirdin mi? O h\u0131zla, bu merdivenlerden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131l\u0131r m\u0131? Buras\u0131 Ladakh!\u201d
Ladakh 3500 metrenin \u00fczerinde yer alan bir b\u00f6lge. Bu y\u00fckseklikte oksijen azald\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan buraya gelen turistlerin \u00e7o\u011funda \u201cy\u00fckseklik hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131\u201d denilen\u00a0 belirtiler olu\u015fuyormu\u015f..\u00a0 \u00d6l\u00fcmc\u00fcl olan bu hastal\u0131\u011fa yakalananlar acil \u015fekilde daha az y\u00fckseklik seviyesindeki b\u00f6lgelere ta\u015f\u0131n\u0131yormu\u015f. Dolay\u0131s\u0131yla kalp ve tansiyon hastalar\u0131na b\u00f6lgeyi ziyaret etmeleri pek de tavsiye edilmiyor.\u00a0 Benim gibi y\u00fcksekli\u011fe dayanabilenlerin yine de dikkatli olmas\u0131 ve v\u00fccutlar\u0131n\u0131 yormadan hareket ettirmeleri gerekiyormu\u015f.
Bunu duyduktan sonra geri kalan merdivenlere Akmerkezdeki ma\u011fazalar muamelesi \u00e7ekmeye karar veriyorum.\u00a0 \u0130ki basamak \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum, durup etrafa manzaraya bak\u0131yorum, sonra iki basamak daha \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum, derin derin nefes \u00e7ekip temiz havay\u0131 i\u00e7ime \u00e7ekmeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorum. Yar\u0131m saatlik bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f sonunda tap\u0131na\u011fa var\u0131yorum. Tap\u0131nak sanki terkedilmi\u015f gibi… Uzun s\u00fcreli seslenmelerimiz sonunda bordo roba sar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir rahip geliyor. D\u00fcnya\u2019n\u0131n en huzurlu ve i\u00e7ten g\u00fcl\u00fcmsemesiyle ellerini g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcnde bulu\u015fturup bizi selaml\u0131yor. \u2018Buda\u2019 diyorum sonra da ellerimle b\u00fcy\u00fck bir heykeli \u00e7izer gibi yap\u0131yorum. \u00d6mer, \u201cellerimle daha \u00e7ok \u201c90-60-90 \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclerinde bir kad\u0131n\u0131 i\u015faret ettin. Hadi bakal\u0131m in\u015fallah ne demek istedi\u011fini anlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r \u201d diye benimle dalga ge\u00e7iyor. Rahibin hareketleri a\u011f\u0131r ve yava\u015f… Benim sab\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131ma ve heyecan\u0131ma bir anlam veremiyor. \u0130\u00e7eriden bir odadan bir anahtar al\u0131yor a\u011f\u0131r ad\u0131mlarla y\u00fcr\u00fcyor ve kap\u0131y\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131yor. Buda\u2019n\u0131n ihti\u015faml\u0131 heykeli kar\u015f\u0131mda duruyor\u2026\u00a0 Fikirleri milyonlarca insan\u0131 etkisinin alt\u0131na alan, hakk\u0131nda binlerce kitap yaz\u0131lan, s\u00f6zleri zaman\u0131n \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7en, herkesin mutlulu\u011fun anahtar\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131na inand\u0131\u011f\u0131,\u00a0 hatta her y\u0131l binlerce turistin Hindistan\u2019\u0131n kuzeyini ziyaret etmesine neden olan adam kar\u015f\u0131mda duruyor. Ne kadar uzun bir zamand\u0131r Buda\u2019y\u0131 bir insan de\u011fil de dinin kendisi gibi alg\u0131lad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 fark ediyorum. Onca resim, heykel, kabartma aras\u0131ndan onu bir insan gibi g\u00f6rmemi sa\u011flayan tek heykel Shey tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131ndaki oldu.\u00a0 Elinde anahtar\u0131 tutan rahibe bak\u0131yorum. Ona bu heykeli g\u00f6rmemi sa\u011flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in defalarca te\u015fekk\u00fcr ediyorum. Ayn\u0131 dili konu\u015famasak da ne demek istedi\u011fimi anl\u0131yor. Herhalde y\u00fcz\u00fcmdeki ifadeyi ba\u015fkalar\u0131nda da g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f olmal\u0131\u2026
Shey Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n\u0131n merdivenlerinden ini\u015f daha kolayd\u0131. T\u0131pk\u0131 Hindistan\u2019\u0131n kuzeyinden ayr\u0131l\u0131rken art\u0131k hayat\u0131n benim i\u00e7in daha daha ba\u015f edilir oldu\u011funa inand\u0131\u011f\u0131m gibi\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Hindistan\u2019\u0131n Kuzey\u2019inde yer alan ve Tibet Budizm\u2019inin kalesi olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan\u00a0 Mc Leod Ganj kasabas\u0131n\u0131n ara sokaklar\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken bir yandan tepemde g\u00f6lgeli bir patika yaratan g\u00fcr \u00e7am a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131na bakarak huzur buluyor, bir yandan da \u00fczerinde oyunlar oynayan maymunlar\u0131 seyrediyorum. G\u00f6zlerimi a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya indirdik\u00e7e \u00f6nce evlerin ve tap\u0131naklar\u0131n \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131nda yer alan ve s\u0131ra s\u0131ra dizilmi\u015f, \u00fczerinde dualar\u0131n yer […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-823","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-kose-yazilari"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/823","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=823"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/823\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":824,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/823\/revisions\/824"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=823"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=823"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/melteminan.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=823"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}